The cat i' the adage

"The growth of knowledge depends entirely on disagreement" Karl Popper (1902 - 1994)

Thursday, April 21, 2005

Does England really have the best restaurants in the world?

Restaurant magazine seems to think so, but I'm very sceptical.

It has become commonplace to hype the gastronomic revolution in Britain, and to disparage, in particular, the state of the French kitchen. British food is an exciting fusion of ideas from all round the world while the French, we are told, stick rigidly to their traditions and rest on their laurels.

Well if sardine-on-toast sorbet is your idea of innovative cuisine make for the Fat Duck at Bray. If, like me, you are repelled by this sort of showy, modish dish you will continue to travel to France where originality is not less common but technique and knowledge are far more assured.

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